This year’s Drakensberg Grand Traverse started with much trepidation, as we had been experienced torrential rain in the region over the past few weeks. Despite this, seven intrepid hikers lined up to undertake one of the world toughest hikes. We were joined by Ralph, Ruth’s husband (he joined us for the first night) and Lana. I met Lana in the Witsies parking lot and she explained that she had travelled from Spain to complete a Northern Traverse. As it is risky to hike in the Drakensberg alone, I suggested she join my group. We started day 1 as a party of nine! Two hikers in my group had previously suffered from altitude sickness, so we took the first day easy and focused on altitude acclimation. After visiting all the lookout spots and Tugela falls, we made our way to the banks of the Elands River to make camp and make an early starts to summit the first peak of the traverse, Mont-aux-sources, the following morning. It has been a glorious first day.
Distance 9.25km Elevation 597m
Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 1
Distance: 16.24 km Elevation Gain: 679 m
We were spoilt with a spectacular sunrise to start the day, but it wasn’t long before the mist rolled in and rain followed. Summiting Mont-aux-Sources in wet, misty conditions became the group’s first real challenge, and an early taste of what lay ahead. On the ascent, hiker Heidi struggled with a headache and fatigue, her mountain legs clearly taking a little longer to kick in. We had to say goodbye to Ralph as he headed down the chain ladders and back to Witsieshoek.
After contouring around Icidi and tackling two substantial climbs, we finally caught sight of our campsite tucked below Madonna Pass. True to Drakensberg form, the weather then shifted dramatically. The clouds lifted, the sun broke through, and we were rewarded with breathtaking views over the Mbundini and Mnweni areas.
Day one covered a moderate distance and was intentionally paced to ease everyone into the traverse. We took plenty of breaks and settled into camp early, allowing the group to adjust to the altitude and the weight of fully loaded packs. Everyone felt the strain of both, and as a chilly wind swept through camp, we turned in early. Fast asleep by sunset. Resting up for the bigger, tougher days still to come.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse- Day 2
16.24km 679m elevation gain
One of the most iconic sunrises in the Drakensberg is from the top of Madonna Pass. It was still dark as we made our way to the top of the pass to watch the sun rise over Madonna and her worshippers. The sky was clear and visibility was perfect. We sat transfixed for what is for most, a once in a lifetime opportunity.
Once we had packed up it was clear that Hiker Heidi felt unwell and wasn’t physically able to continue with the traverse. Her companion Bruno would accompany her down Rockeries pass. I made arrangements for my porter to hike up from Mnweni to meet them. It was also the day that our last-minute addition, Lana, would also be ending her Northern Traverse journey, so she too would be leaving us. After a fond farewell at the top of Rockeries, we made camp at the Senqu River. We spend the afternoon lazing on the grass amongst the wildflower and playing cards and Rummicub.
This would be our last opportunity for relaxation as from this point our days would be long and without respite.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 3
Distance: 19.62 km Elevation Gain: 859 m
With extra ground to cover, we set off early. Our first stop was Vulture Buttress, where Cape Vultures soared above us, and I managed to call my porter to confirm that Heidi, Bruno, and Lana had safely reached Mnweni Cultural Village.We followed the escarpment towards Ntonjalane Pass, the kilometres steadily wearing on the group.I was grateful to have such a perfect summers day, as I had taken a specific route to be able to capitalise on the views of the Cathedral peak area. Fatigue set in as we climbed Elephant Gully and we experienced a brief hailstorm as we descended.
By the time we made camp at the top of Tseketseke Pass, tired but satisfied, the mountains rewarded us with a truly magnificent sunset. An unforgettable end to a demanding and exciting day.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse- Day 4
15.93km 796m elevation gain
I’ve always said that one day Cleft Peak will be the death of me, and this day was no exception. Having woken up to thick mist and drizzle, our group painstakingly made its way up to the second compulsory summit. I had to describe the view as best I could, and after a hasty summit selfie we made the long descent to organ pipes. Mist can be extremely disorientating, and while hiking over Ndumeni Dome, I took the side route to Rolands’s cave. After a few meters I realised my mistake but something else caught my eye. A botanist friend of mine had asked me to keep an eye out for a rare plant, Guthriea capensis, and on the footpath to Rolands’s cave, I literally found dozens of them.This was our second sighting of the ‘hidden flower’ plant and after marking a waypoint we continued on our way.The views from the top of Ndumeni were underwhelming to say the least, and once we descended into the next valley I suggested we take a mental health break after being out for hours in constant drizzle and fog.
We set up Ruths Durston tent and all managed to all fit inside with just the flysheet. After a warm and cosy lunch break, we continued to Yodlers Valley. About two kilometers before our intended campsite, I decided to call it a day. Chilled and soaked, everyone was grateful to dry off and have an early night.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse – Day 5
Distance: 26 km Elevation gain: 1139 m
Day five greeted us with clear skies and cool air. Sunshine has a way of making even damp socks and wet shoes feel manageable, and we welcomed it wholeheartedly. Recent flash floods in Yodler’s Valley had reshaped the landscape since my last visit in September. Familiar paths were gone and the riverbanks were steep and eroded. The shepherds were still absent from the highlands, we had the entire valley to ourselves, a rare and special tranquillity. Before tackling our first major climb, we spread out our soaked gear and tents on the grass, letting the sun work its magic while we enjoyed a relaxed breakfast surrounded by towering peaks.
This was our longest day by distance, packed with multiple climbs, including the ascent of Champagne Castle, compulsory peak number three on the Grand Traverse. The views from higher up were nothing short of spectacular. Endless ridgelines, deep valleys, and that unmistakable Drakensberg grandeur stretching in every direction.
After a long, steady walk down Lesley’s Valley, we finally reached our campsite. Twelve hours on our feet, tired but satisfied…
Drakensberg Grand Traverse- Day 6
24km 1068m elevation gain
Depending on the duration, a Drakensberg Traverse can be extremely challenging, more leisurely, or anything in-between. It’s a classic build your own adventure hike. A 12-day traverse is more suited if you want to take photos, enjoy the views, take lunchtime swims, and stop to smell the flowers.On day 6 of our traverse, we were under time constraints to reach our resupply point, summit the highest peak of South Africa (compulsory peak number 4) and cover a fair amount of distance. With our goal to reach to top of Langalibalele pass by 3pm, breaks and photos opportunities would be brief.
The route to the summit of Mafadi is a slow steady climb and soon we were literally on top of the world, with incredible 360 views of Lesotho and South Africa. After a few summit selfies we were off again, whizzing past iconic passes such as Judges and Bannerman’s. We stopped at the valley below Langalibalele, and I stationed Ruth at our intended campsite with the backpacks. The rest of us would hike up to the top of the pass and wait for the resupply team.
We arrived at the resupply point, and I was surprised to not find the resupply team. They are usually extremely punctual and reliable. Switching on my phone I received a message that one of the group had slipped in a river and was injured, luckily not too seriously and they arrived within an hour or two. The resupply packages seemed alarmingly heavy, even though we had packed them ourselves, and we knew that being back to our starting pack weight, footsore and pack weary would be challenging.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse
Day 7-Distance 11.85km elevation gain 693m
Day 8-Distance 23km elevation gain 683m
Day 7
With our packs back to their starting weight, we set off. Our first challenge was Mt Durnford, which we unanimously decided was the hardest climb of the traverse.
As the day progressed, mist rolled in and light rain followed, gradually reducing visibility. I decided to call it a day and not summit Giants Castle in low visibility weather. With Giants Castle looming above us in the clouds, we set up camp. The weather showed no sign of improving, so summiting the 5th compulsory peak would have to wait for the following morning.
The wind howled around the tents and the drizzle continued into the evening. Ruth was feeling unwell, and reaching camp early was welcome.
Day 8
We woke to an icy wind and thick cloud pressing against the tents. With the conditions still harsh, Ruth made the sensible decision to stay behind and conserve her strength.
The return trip to the summit of Giants Castle took close to three hours and was brutal. We moved slowly through thick fog and steady rain, often walking right along the edge of the escarpment with very little visibility.
Reaching the summit was a huge relief, knowing the worst was behind us. Soon after, the weather turned. The sun finally broke through, lifting spirits as we broke camp and headed inland toward Lesotho. A clear, sunny day was a welcome change. We slept that night in an abandoned kraal, the flattest campsite so far, and watched a beautiful sunset before finally getting some proper rest.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse- Day 9
Distance 25km vertical gain 1100m
We woke at first light at the abandoned homestead and made our way down into the valley, heading toward Thabana Ntlenyana. The day was warm and breezy, but it was going to be a demanding one with 25km and 1 100 m of climbing to get done.Thabana Ntlenyana rises to 3 482m, and the climb took us six long hours.At the summit, Ruth told me she was not feeling well. She was clearly struggling, with a severe headache and nausea brought on by altitude sickness.Even I had begun to feel the dull nausea of hunger that 10 days of trail snacks could no longer silence.
She kept moving, step by step, with a quiet determination.As we descended, it became clear her condition was worsening, and I’d made the call to divert to a pastor friend of mine near Sani Pass. Once again, Lesotho showed us its heart. The Basotho people have an unmatched generosity. The pastor welcomed us, offering a small bungalow, a hot shower, and food.Pastor Siphiwe is an extraordinary man, dedicating his life to educating traditional herders. By teaching them to read and write, he helps them create brighter futures. He cooked us lasagna and traditional Lesotho bread, a simple meal that felt like a gift beyond measure. After days of cold, rain, and being unable to wash properly, the hot shower was overwhelming in the best possible way. I washed my clothes in a basin, feeling the dust of the trail float away.
After Ruth had eaten and settled into bed, I hoped the night would bring relief and she would be well enough to continue in the morning. Lying there, clean and well fed, I felt immense gratitude. For Ruth’s strength, for the kindness of friends who felt like family, and for this beautiful country that continues to remind me that in the mountains we carry each other.
Drakenberg Grand Traverse
Day 10
Distance 20km elevation gain 825m
Ruth woke feeling remarkably better. I was relieved, as it really would have been a shame for her to withdraw so close to the end.We left the church with full bellies and very happy hearts, after a hearty breakfast. Getting back onto the trail took some effort, but spirits were high, and the group agreed they’d happily accept another “unscheduled rest day” if one came with food like that.Once moving, we covered ground quickly. By early afternoon the sky had other ideas, piling up dark clouds and delivering not one but two impressive electrical storms.
Once calm had returned, we called it a day and camped in the valley before the Mahai River, short of our original plan.
All in all, a pretty good day.
Drakensberg Grand Traverse
Day 11
Distance 20km elevation gain 906m
With the finish line finally in sight, excitement ran high despite two big climbs still standing between us and the finish line. The last hurdle would be up Walker’s Peak and down Isicatula pass.
From the top of Walkers peak, the familiar vastness of Lesotho stretched out in every direction. The wind however was fierce and unrelenting, and the pass was as treacherous as ever.The walk along the valley towards our campsite felt surreal after the choas of the peak. The group confessed to silently praying to get down to the valley safely.
Arriving at out final campsite, the Drakenberg had one last surprise waiting for us. Unbeknownst to us, we had pitched our tents right in the dining hall of a very large, very committed herd of cattle. At first there was a distant rumble. Then chaos. A full-on stampede of cows, calves, and several enormous bulls thundered through our campsite as if summoned by a dinner bell we didn’t know we’d rung.
Tshengi and I peeked out of the tent to find we were completely surrounded by several bulls easily weighing half a ton, clearly in mating season, and not in the mood for hikers. We froze, unsure whether to make a run for it or quietly zip ourselves back into our nylon cocoon and hope for the best.Eventually at sunset, the herd decided they’d had enough of us and wandered off back to their kraal, leaving behind two people who may never fully emotionally recover. I now have very real cow PTSD.
That night, with a mere 14km remaining to the Bushman’s nek border post, we enjoyed our final evening. Conversation turned to home. Hot showers, clean clothes, and loved ones, while a part of us was heartsore to be leaving the mountains.
Day 12
When it’s all over, there is no dramatic finish.
Just the sense that something heavy (literally and figurative), has been carried a great distance, and finally set down. Facing adversity asks a lot but gives more back.Doing something genuinely hard leaves a mark. Invisible to outsiders, it quietly reshapes your inner word. Stripped of comfort and distraction, you learn what you can tolerate, where your edges are, and how much farther they extend than you once thought possible.From the outside, it may look like a hike completed, but the real change is harder to explain. You come back steadier, less hurried, carrying a calm confidence and peace. You know, in your bones, what you are capable of.
Because this, in its simplest form, is where life makes sense.
Effort with purpose, presence without distraction, and the quiet satisfaction of moving through the world one step at a time.
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