Fish River Canyon

Day 1

Your first view of the canyon is breathtaking. It’s not every day you get to stand on the edge of the second-largest canyon in the world.

Everyone talks about the 460m descent into the canyon from the rim, as this is the only technical section of the hike.

The remainder of the trail is rather flat and switches continuously between boulder beds and beach sand. As we were hiking in a drought there were no slippery river crossings. Our journey was the complete opposite. Endless kilometers with nothing but the canyon floor and cliffs on either side. The canyon devoid of water lacked any sign of life, besides the scattered skeletal remains of the occasional animal.

We each descended with 6 litres of water and aimed to reach a tiny spring called “Spring in the reeds” by the end of our first day.

Once we reached the canyon floor there was a rather green and highly mineralised pool of water. Without second thought most of us were in the salty, algae-filled pool as the temperatures were well into the low 40’s by now. We rested in the shade of scrub bush before attempting the final 4km to the spring. It is impossible to explain how torturous these final 4kms were. Although it was already 15h30 by the time we started making our way to our campsite, the rocks we crossed had been baked by the Namibian sun all day and I would estimate that the ambient temperature was easily 50 degrees. All slightly dazed from the heat we reached the spring not a minute too soon.

It was clear from that moment that the Fish River under these circumstances required a unique approach if we were going to complete it successfully.

We went to sleep that night mesmerized by the stars and the rising of an almost full moon over the rim of the canyon. The blistering temperatures and extreme water scarcity never far from our minds.

Day 2

I had planned to start hiking at 6 am, but after our experience the previous day, the group assured me that they were prepared to even start at 3 am to avoid the blistering heat! By 5 am we were ready to hit the trail, even though the first light would only be at 6h45. The full moon lit our way, and the cool morning air was a balm after the searing heat of the previous day. A few kilometers into the hike, I alerted the group we had reached the location of the old Vespa memorial. The group split up to comb the area and soon there was a shout that it had been spotted. After plenty of selfies and laughter, we were back on the trail.

We reached our destination at Palm Sulphur Springs at around 11 am. It was already incomprehensibly hot, and we all collapsed in the shade and spent the afternoon swimming in the lake. This enormous lake was fed by a sulphurous hot geyser, and the air constantly smelt of sulphur which took some getting used to. We all gingerly drank the foul-smelling water, which seemed to be less offensive when it cooled.

Having avoided the heat of the day and spent the afternoon relaxing, the mood shifted from the perils of the canyon to marvelling at the natural splendour of where we found ourselves.

Fish River is beautiful in the most surreal way, and it soon had us all under her spell.

Day 3

This was the day I had been most concerned about in terms of water availability. From Palm Sulphur Springs to the 35km Namibian Wildlife emergency tank there was not a single drop of water to be found. From day 1 we had each carried 2 litres of emergency water that was not to be touched and this was the day that we might need it. I was not prepared to let the group drink the highly mineralized swampy water, as dehydration due to diarrhea would only exacerbate our already tenuous situation. Our packs had been ultra-light from the start to compensate for the additional water we had to carry.

At this stage of the hike, the Fish River Canyon started to widen and we were able to cover distances quickly. We had set our sights on the Namibian Wildlife tank at the 35km mark, but as I suspected would be the case, when we arrived it was bone dry.

The heat was again becoming unbearable, so we took shelter at Vasbyt Bend under a copse of Acacia trees and planned to hike to the 40km tank in the late afternoon. Our water was down to the last 2-litre reserve, and we prayed there would be water at the tank. Suddenly as if seeing a mirage, two Namibian Wildlife rangers walking towards us carrying water to the 35km tank. The group was overjoyed, and we were able to receive 1 liter each. The rest of the afternoon was spent napping, chatting, and moving our ground sheets to make the most of the available shade. Hikers debated what was the highest price they would be prepared to pay for a cold coke with plenty of ice.

At 4 pm we set off for the next tank, despite it still being mind-numbingly hot. Arriving at the 40km tank we were relieved to find there was about 50 litres of water remaining. We each took 2 litres, mindful to leave enough water for any hikers behind us. We then set up camp in a sandy riverbed and watched the moon rise over the canyon rim. We felt we had triumphed in an episode of Survivor- The Fish River Canyon Edition.

Day 4

Again, we started bright and early with the moon lighting our way. We reached the 45km tank at Bushy Corner to find it empty, but I knew at 50km there was 1500 litre tank which was guaranteed to have ample water.

We took the shortcut over the pass just as it was becoming light. When we reached the top, we watched the sunrise and the moon set simultaneously. Knowing this was a privilege that few ever get to experience we took some time to savour the moment.

After filling our bottles at the 50km tank we spend the rest of the day at Barbell pools, swimming and relaxing. The earth around the pool was made up of hard-baked clay, and soon several of the group were taking mud advantage of the mineral-rich earth and indulging in mud baths.

Climbing our final pass in the late afternoon, the canyon widened even further, and majestic rock formations such as four-fingered rock towered over us. We continued to hike to the Pink Palace, the abandoned façade of an old general store, which would be our destination for the day. We would be completing the hike the following morning and the mood was buoyant, as we contemplated a shower and icy cold beverages.

Day 5

The final 12 kilometers to Ai-Ais passed quickly and by mid-morning, we proudly strode into the camp. As was tradition the staff rang the bell, clapped, and cheered as they did for every returning group. Not only had we successfully tackled a challenging situation, but we had also maximized the fun factor, and everyone felt a huge sense of accomplishment. I felt incredibly proud of each individual and marvelled of the sense of cohesion and comradery we had established. It has been an honour to have spent the week with an amazing group of people. Following a day soaking in the hot spring and several burgers we planned the return trip to Johannesburg, tired but immensely satisfied.